A Reminder

For new dog owners and a refresher for us all.  It is summer and the temps are rising.  Dogs sweat through their pads on their feet.  Walking them on a very hot pavement will not only burn their pads but could lead to heat exhaustion or stroke.
Walk your dogs on grass at park or take them to the beach or lake where they can cool down in the water.
Ensure that they are well hydrated and even add ice cubes to their water bowl.

Do not leave your dogin a car for any length of time.  This graph demonstrates how hot it can get inside the car.  For that matter do not leave your child inside either the consequences could be devastating!

Enjoy your summer!

The art of the treat! Taking the lead!

I said this next blog was to do with training the dog for the leash but you could name it train the dog with a treat for anything.

Let us start with the bath.  Eventually you will want to bath your dog.  Either he rolled in something, got muddy or simply needs to be groomed.  If you have oodles of money you may opt to pay someone to do it for you but a bath does not have to be a test of wills.

Long before you have no choice in the matter is the best time to train the dog.  Start by taking the pooch into the bathroom and place him/her in the tub.  Place him in the tub.  Reward him/her.  That's it.  Do nothing else.
Do this for a few days where you introduce the new environment to him/her.  Each time allow him/her a few seconds at first then 30 seconds and then a minute to sniff and get the reward.  The dog will eventually associate the bath as a great place to be for a treat.
After a few days, the dry run I'll call it, then introduce running the tap.  Again he she will be startled at first but with the treat reward he/she will get used to it and again it is a great place to get a treat.

Introduce the shower and soak the dog whilst you praise the heck out of him/her for being soooooo gooooood.

Eventually with consistency your dog bathing should become memorable rather than a challenge.

Chevy actually jumps into the bath because he knows what is coming his way.

Don't have treats?

Kibble from their dog bowl will suffice.  People are so conditioned that specialty items have to be treats.
A dog can't read a label.  When we go to bed the dogs get a final treat and are so conditioned to it that we sometimes have to substitute with kibble because we ran out of their treats.

Taking the lead is basically the same routine.  First get a collar.
some recommend harnesses, some say muzzle and others say a collar works well.
A dog whose nose is on the ground is in hunt mode and will no listen to you thus it is incumbent on you to ensure his head is up and his attention is on you.
Obviously a puppy is being introduced to a collar.  This will be a challenge and he may resist and scratch at this new item wrapped around his neck
Place the collar on and leave it on and reward the put but don't go overboard.  By leaving the collar on and pre-occupying the pup with something else like chasing a ball or stick in the back yard will suffice.

Once he/she is used to the collar the next step is placing the lead on him.
Remember you are the pack leader.  You should exit the door or gate first and the dog should follow.  If you choose the other way, you indicate that he is the pack leader and that is where the mixed signals begin.

Initially a pup will cower and fight the leash.  Re-enforce the good behavior.
Your first walk may just occur in the confines of the back yard.  Eventually he will get used to the lead.
Use the word, "Heel" and as soon as the dog is at your side give him a treat.  When you get to a crosswalk or need to stop for any reason have the dog first heel and then sit.  Now give the reward.

It is all about the treat and rewarding the right behavior rather than the wrong.
Grooming or brushing the dog's hair follows the same pattern.  Use baby steps.
Bring the brush out.  Let the dog sniff it.  reward him.  Repeat without brushing.
Eventually, you may brush the dog and reward him.  Quite often the brush itself is reward enough because it feels so good.

Anything you choose to do with the dog is best broken down into its elements.  Start slow and gradually introduce the items to the mix rewarding the good behavior along the way.

Training 101 repeat

I have said before the art of training a dog is repetition.  There is no need to hit a dog.  Evaluate yourself first before you punish the dog.  Were you consistent?  Were you giving the wrong signals?
Quite often you will find that it is you that is at fault and not the dog.
What do I mean?  You see I am misleading you right now by not being forthright in my explanation.
If your dog jumps up when you get home, you may think, Wow what a wonderful and loving reaction to missing me. This happens every time you come home and you think nothing of it until one day your dog jumps up on a child or senior and due to it's size it knocks the person over.
That simple show of affection now becomes an embarrassment to you and could even end up in a legal turmoil if the senior is injured.
Now that cute, "love me tender", response is now a liability that you have to undo.
The best response to jumping up, biting, chewing up shoes and furniture is to nip it in the bud the minute it first rears it's ugly head.
Puppies will naturally bite for example.  In their environment the litter mates would  yelp and eventually they would teach one another that biting hard is not acceptable.
You are now the other litter mate and lead dog of your pack. If you want good manners it starts with you and ends with you.  A dog is a reflection of the signals you convey.
When a dog bites, say "OW!" "That hurts!" and stop the play.  When you feed the pup a treat and he grabs the food over zealously, say the same thing and also say be gentle.
The dogs understand.  Some need constant reminding.  I stated before that 2 of my five get excited at the treat and I have to show the back of my hand first so that my hand is between the food and his mouth.  I say be gentle and place the treat into the mouth.  I have only been bitten once, accidentally by our female, Dakota because I forgot to remind her to be gentle.
I believe, like humans, dogs have 2 spirits.  Some are born with an old soul and others are born with a young soul.
I know call be silly, however,. Dakota, Chevy and Shadow have young souls and Gizmo and Ciara have old souls.
An old soul dog is one who learns quickly but does not display irratic behavior.  He/she is cautious and level headed.
A young soul is the type that would jump into the water first and then test the depth.

This explains why Dakota will forget herself, ignore her world and place herself in peril at every turn.
She loves kids and if I take her out to the car without a leash, I have to scan the neighborhood for children because in a flash she will take off to be with a kid.
This means she will cross a street placing herself at risk of being hit by a car.  She will run into an open door to the surprise of the owner, just to pay a visit.
 Gizmo on the other hand is laid back, will listen to your commands, and does not need a leash.  He sniffs the food first and then gently takes the treat and lays down.  If he is not hungry he leaves the treat and the ravenous trio await for him to abandon it so they can have it.  He has the old soul.

Knowing what kind of soul your dog has is crucial to how you will train him.  If he is a puppy at heart, chances he will be that way forever.
If he has the old soul he will be laid back forever.

The young souls are the ones that will challenge you at every turn.  It is their personalty, and like humans we have those who party hard and never start from high school to middle age and the old soul group that leave that behind as soon as the children arrive.

If you get to know your dog you will know the level of effort required to keep your dog in line.  the high energy dog or young souls will require copious amounts of exercise, constant discipline, and a person who is on the ball reminding and rewarding the pup for the right reasons and not re-enforcing the wrong behavior.

Next will tackle the leash.

Why a dog?

Actually I could have entitled this as Why A Pet?  It is obvious.  Pets are therapeutic.  They are great companions and remove the void of emptiness if you find yourself alone, especially in your later years.
They have been known to reduce blood pressure and reduce the affects of depression.
They are a great excuse for you to stay mobile by getting you out of the house for a walk or two.

Pets are entertaining.  They have a personality and often is the case for my wife and I to simply watch the Antics of our 5 Shih Tzus as they play.  We have been brought to tears of laughter by their behavior.
Check out my Videos on You Tube http://www.youtube.com/loafour

Each dog has it's very unique quality.  Gizmo is grumpy yet a big softy.  Ciara is a little princess who will not jump up on the bed but has no problem scaling Everest when she is outside.  Chevy will turn his head if you try to kiss him on the face but is a real cuddler whose big bug eyes can melt the coldest heart.
Shadow is the prince.  He is the lead dog of the pack.  He loves exploring his environment and would die protecting his family.  Dakota is referred to as Dora the Explorer.  She has to know where we are going at all times and is quite persistent on getting the front seat to herself.  She has a stubborn streak a mile wide and has to be the last into the car as she explores every thing every where.
Dakota loves kids and has been known to walk into any open door on our street simply to pay whom ever a visit.
Obviously, you have your own story to share with your own pet.  If you don't have a pet or have just bought one.  You will soon have a list of stories to share with your friends and family.  I have seen my dogs over the years walk into windows, fall off the couch where they were precariously perched before they fell asleep, get chased by cats, pass wind and thus clear a room of all inhabitants.
I have seen pets grab the empty dog bowl and toss it across the room to get the owner's attention that the bowl is empty.  I have seen a dog grab the bowl and carry it to the dining room where guests were seated and demand food.
Like Chevy, who now grabs the newspaper or steals one from the recycling bin in hopes to get a treat.

Your dogs will bring you many years of pleasure.  A dog especially, will love you more than life itself and ask for nothing in return.
If you show that dog any attention he will repay you exponentially and that is a commodity that often is lacking in our human counterparts.

Some Pictures

Thats a big eye u got.

Add caption

You can't see me....

I r Lion Dog here me roar!

You Still  can't see me

Motherhood sucks....

I r Bentley

I r not ET

Say Uncle

Shadow

Lying down, crawling, You're Busted!

The treat is the most effective tool when it comes to training a dog.  Be warned that the treat should not be given regardless of whether the pup performs the trick or not.  Do not confuse the dog.  He will want to please so realize that often a pup gets excited when food is present.  This will wain as he grows but nip it in the bud by being assertive and ensure that he behaves the way you want him.  Rewarding the wrong behavior only goes to re-enforce it and now undoing that process becomes another challenge.

Once the dog can sit then simply show the treat and draw your hand away and down toward the floor until he is lying down.  Again continue to use the command "Lie Down" as your perform the process.

Once he has that mastered, try getting him to lay down then pull the treat away from him towards you and say "Crawl" or Sneak up on it", either command will suffice.  eventually with practice you can have him lay down and sneak up on a ball place a short distance away and then reward him with a treat.

To teach a dog to heal works in the same manner.  Make sure you bring ample of bite size treats with you on your walk.  Use the word "heel", and hold the treat close to your hip and when he positions himself by your hip let him have the treat.

A fun trick is holding a treat against a wall in your house, high enough for the dog to stand on his hind legs and place his front paws onto the wall.  Say "Your Busted" when he does it.  After a while, hold back giving the dog the treat until you pat him down, and say something like "Quick hide the evidence" and then give him the reward.

I had a poodle cross the performed this trick so well that I would just say "Your Busted" and she would find any wall simply for the reward.

Dogs are not stupid.  I have mentioned how I have trained Chevy to bring in the mail and the paper.
He surprised me the other day when we returned home and the paper was on the pathway wrapped in a plastic bag.  Chevy didn't hesitate, he went for the paper and dragged it inside without being asked because he knew what was coming at the end of the trick.

He has also learned that the recycle bin has, you got it, newspapers in it , and often he will try to pull one out in exchange for that treat.
So I think you will be pleasantly surprised by your dog's own creativity and craftiness.

Handling the treat...ouch that was my finger!

Obviously I am not addressing sitting today.  The art of hand feeding a dog is important.
All dogs have different strengths and attitudes.  It is important that you know your breed.  A lab should display soft mouth touch, whereas  a rottweiler may present the opposite for good reasons.  It depends upon what they were initially bred for.
A lab is a retriever  and a bird dog.  They go into the field or water to recover killed birds for their master.  If they were to chomp down on the bird it would be rendered useless to the master.  Instead a lab has such a gentle mouth I have been able to teach one to fetch a raw egg and not break it in its mouth.  His reward was the raw egg after he brought it back to me.

When giving your dog a treat it is important to ensure that he/she is calm and fully focused on you.  An excited dog will unintentionally chomp down.

I have Shih-Tzu's who weight a mere 14 lbs but when excited have drawn blood whilst retrieving said treat.

Two of my 5 are excitable while the other three can take a treat gently from my hand.  The other 2 need to be told to be gentle and then I place the treat in my fingers and lead in to their mouth with the back of my hand.
I place my hand in their mouth and as long as they do not grab my hand, I release the treat.  If they show any move to grab the treat from my hand I pull my hand away and say "No", "Be Gentle".  I then repeat the process.

With larger dogs it is best to start as a pup.  Placing the hand in the mouth gets them to taste your scent and associate it with being gentle.
If it is an older dog, make sure you know its feeding habits and how it retrieves treats.  Always lead with the back of your hand and remove it if they show a tendency to clamp down.  Larger dogs can cause more damage to you even if it is accidental.

Besides being calm, you too need to be calm and assertive at all times.  If you too are not focused on your dog then you might miss the tell tale sign that the dog is not focused and excited.  You might get bitten by accident as a result.  I know, I did this year by Dakota, and the look on her face was that of a very sorry dog.  She got the treat, was not hit or spanked.  I simply said "ow!" and then I told her "No", "Be Gentle" and gave her the treat.
For several weeks after she was ever so gentle.  Now she is back to her old ways of being excited so I have to focus on her and then she receives the treat after she sits and is calm.

If you have more than one dog, it is sometimes better to separate them at treat time especially if one is excited and prone to chomping.  Its a competition between the other dogs and sometimes it is easier to reduce the anxiety level by giving the one a treat separate from the other.

I said sit not sh*t!

I follow one simple rule and it is called the 3 Rs of training.
Remain calm
Repetition
Reward

It is that simple.  Patience is the corner stone of training your dog.
Second, you need to be consistent.  You can't get the dog to sit and then don't bother for another 3 days and wonder why the confounded dog hasn't learned the new trick you taught him just the other day or so ago.

I implement hand signals at the same time as I train the dog to sit.

If you are out in a field or your dog gets out of the home and wants to cross the busy road to get to you then hand signals can save your dog's life.

I recommend that you raise your hand over your head to signify sit.
For stay I would recommend your arm straight out in front of you with your had pointing up. The sit command will get the dog's attention and know to sit by showing him the signal to stay simply enforces your first signal.

When you want him to come bring your hand towards you and say come.

Getting the dog to sit is quite easy.  For the puppy it may be a bit of a challenge because he is young and gets excited knowing there is a treat coming his way.

This is where remaining calm comes in.
Tell the dog to sit and simply place your hand on his backend and say sit.
When he does it, reward him.

A second action that often works is to simply use the treat and slightly above his head move the treat towards the rear of the dog.  He will most likely sit.

Repeat this function until he sits on verbal command.

Obviously it is best to have 100 percent of his attention so try doing this some place where you can have one to one without distractions of older dogs or young kids.



After he sits on verbal command and you no longer need to push his bottom down into the sitting position, then implement the hand jesture each and every time.  Eventually he will associate the body language with sit.

Stop using the verbal command and see if he/she sits down.

Reward him or her and praise him as often as it is possible.

If he/she fails to respond to the command, do not reward him.  Never re-enforce bad behavior.

Simply say firmly, when he is misbehaving, "NO!"
Redirect his attention away from what he is interested in and make sure he is focused totally on you.

Have him/her sit and again reward and praise him.

Shake a paw can also be accomplished quite quickly but don't load your dog up with a dozen tricks.  Start with one and when he/she has mastered the hand gesture then introduce the next trick.

Next we will tackle stay.  It is a little trickier because you need to take baby steps but eventually with hand signals you can be quite a distance from your dog and have him/her sit and stay.

Potty Training 101

It is pretty simple.  When the dog leaves a treasure, rub his nose in it give him a swat and boot his sorry ass outside!
Now that I have your attention, that was how we might have been taught 30 years ago and chances are you thought the beatings and the rubbing of the nose in kaka worked.  In fact what one didn't realize was one small fact and that was the dog was communicating to you and slowly training your sorry butt to be a little more observant when it comes to the needs of the dog.
After a couple of accidents you probably decided to let the mutt out before you had your cup of joe and guess what?  Your dog appreciated not smelling poop for the rest of the day as a result.
Let's face it, you don't rub your child's nose in excrement when they fill their diaper so why do you think it necessary to do it to your dog?
I said in previous blogs, that there is no need to hit or beat your dog.....EVER.....

So what is the trick?

When you have a puppy, understand that like a human baby, it takes time to gain control of it's faculties and thus, you must train yourself to recognize that.
When you get up in the am, don't pass go, don't collect $200.00, go straight to the door.  If it is a small pup, pick it up and take it straight to the door because between the kennel and the door there is ample place to relieve oneself along the way and believe me they have to go NOW!

I use pee pads right out of the gate.  We place the pad right outside the kennel and as soon as the puppy decides to venture out for the first time it usually tinkles.  The pee pads are usually scented as to encourage the proper response.  As the pup gets more venturesome, we move the pad closer to the door.

We reward the pet every time they do the right thing.  We use dry hard treats and though I did not mention in feeding the dog, we recommend dry dog food because it helps control tartar build up on the dog's teeth.

We always compliment them and tell them they are good after the blessed event.  To this day Ciara goes outside does her thing and runs in and goes to the cupboard where the treats are and awaits her reward.  Sometimes she goes out and does nothing and still expects the treat.   She is 4 years old.

Accidents will happen even after the dog is trained.  If you don't expect that then why do you want a dog for?

Routine is the cornerstone of training your dog.  If you don't put in the time then why should you expect anything less than a poorly trained dog.
Let's face it, these dogs are screaming out to you, I want to please you, show me how?

In the morning go straight to the door.
Reward the pup.
Before you leave for work, take the dog out one more time and again reward them.
Better yet get up sooner and take the pet for a walk, rain, sleet, snow, or any other inclement situation.
As the famous saying goes..."Just Do It!"

Accidents may also lead you to discovering a medical situation with said pet.  If you have a routine, then notice something amiss, the dog could be indicating a medical emergency.  If you don't have a routine, you might just miss the obvious and the pet could die as a result.

Vaccinate your dog.  Parvo is a painful killer of dogs and can be avoided.

If your dog had diarrhea, it could be from what it ingested, especially if you feed the dog table scraps.
It may indicate many disorders, from simple case of feeling lousy to allergies to pet food or human food.
If your dog has continued diarrhea, feed him/her a plain, nothing on it, baked potato.  It will balance their electrolytes and quite often control and even cure the dog of it's bowel issue.  If it doesn't, seek medical attention immediately.

If your dog is neither spayed or neutered then understand this....Nature will call and both male and females will mark territory...whenever and where ever, and that can become an embarrassment to you.

A male who has not been neutered has three functions, to hump anything and everything, eat and mark territory.  It is a dog doing what a dog does and if you are surprised by this then again why did you buy a dog in the first place and why did you think you were doing them a favor by saving their sex organs for them?

Females will bleed when in season.  Some bleed heavier than others and bedding, furniture, and the carpet will get bled onto.  So please, unless you are going to breed your pet, do yourself a big favor and have the dogs fixed as soon as the Vet tells you it is time.

Well I went off subject, however all is part of owning a dog.  A dog is like owning a house.  You have your payment but can you really afford the house?  Are you prepared for the replacement of the roof, the hot water tank, painting the inside or outside?  Owning a dog can be more costly to you as well.  Dental care can run into the thousands of dollars.  Any surgery can start as low as a few hundred to several thousands of dollars.
Are you prepared economically for that investment?
This is why I recommend that 18-30 year old's should not own a dog. 

Get into a routine and it is amazing what you will discover about your dog.  Chevy, my youngest dog, aged 2, demonstrated a desire to horde all the dog toys, our glasses, cell phones, hats and anything he took a shine to.  I figured that if he likes to horde, I wonder if I could teach him to fetch the paper or for that matter the mail.
Low and behold I took an insert from the paper, gave it to him and he darted straight into the living room and plunked down in his hording corner and shredded the paper.
The next time I asked my wife to stay inside with a treat in hand and when Chevy came bounding in, my wife traded the paper for the treat and then told him that he was a good boy.  Now he looks forward to bringing in the paper and drops it on the floor and waits for his treat.

When my dogs go outside and bark, I don't say stop barking but instead say no speaking.  now half of the battle for training the dog to speak is over.  They associate the word speak with the action of barking.

In closing, the better the routine, the better the outcome for both you and your dog.  You will be able to determine medical issues when they first arise and by paying attention, your dog will tell you a great deal about him or herself in the process.  If you do go away for longer than normal, expect accidents.  When they are sick anticipate accidents.  Alter your routine to fit the needs of the pet.  If you have an hour lunch, come home, I can assure you the best medicine for a crappy day a work is the greeting you will get from your best friend.

Feeding the Critter...

There are two ways you can feed your puppy.  One is on demand and the other is with scheduled measured portions.  Either will work for most dogs.
I'm lazy so I prefer the first method.  I have 5 Shih-Tzu dogs and I have one bowl and I simply keep it full and when a dog is hungry, it eats.
This system works well if your breeder has already got the dogs accustomed to eating this way.  the dogs regulate themselves.
The downside is you have to watch the pup if there is an older more dominate dog in the house. 
We have a pack and there is a pecking order.  Shadow is the stud and the dominate alpha male who eats first and will growl if any other dog comes around while he is at the bowl.  The danger is that a puppy has no clue about the pecking order and may venture too close and be snapped at or worse even attacked. 
You have to know the personalities of your dogs and guard against this situation.  Most often a simple growl sends the right signal and the pup backs away. 
Our pups can share with their mom, uncle and grandmother but both Gizmo the neutered grandfather and his son, Shadow prefer eating alone.

Some dogs are gluttons and do not fair well on the demand system because they will eat until they burst, get sick and can even die.  You'll know if this is true when you put the first plate down.  If he/she eats like a vacuum cleaner, you might opt for the measured approach.

The measured approach is quite simple.  You take your pup, measure his/her weight and mete out the portions you give based on size and what the vet or the dog food recommends.  It usually equals 1 or 2 cups of food in the morning and the same again at night.  You leave water out at all times.

The benefits to this is a fit and trim pup who should stay that way for life as long as you take in his size and age when giving him/her their food.
You might have to adjust the amount after spaying or neutering as most dogs are prone to weight gain after the surgery.
It means you have another reason to stay trim and fit yourself because your dog will require regular scheduled walks to stay thin.

Socializing Your Dog.

This is a crucial step into the health of your dog.
Boundaries need to be in place with everyone before the dog comes home.
If you have children, they need to be monitored especially toddlers.
Limit the time the toddlers have and try not to let the kids become over excited with a lot of screeching and running around.
The calmer the environment the calmer the dog will be.  It is a reflection of you as is your children
I said before, our dogs are forever 2 and are dependent forever.
This is not a license to treat the dog like a person.  Treat it like it is...a dog
Bad habits can turn into destructive behavior later in life.
When someone comes to visit.  Control the dog before answering the door.  Have it sit.  If need be, have it on a leash.  Do not pay attention to the dog.  Greet the friend.  Do not have them pay attention or make contact with the dog.  Allow the dog to sniff the friend and ignore the dog still.
What you want is the dog not to get excited every time someone arrives.
Jumping up and down is a sign of mild dominance and a nuisance to visiting friends who might have nice cloths on and do not want paw prints on them.
A larger breed dog can harm a child or senior it it is too excited and throws its 100+ pound weight around.
Nipping this in the bud as a pup makes for a pleasant visit for all concerned.
Introduce the pup to new environments.  Take the pup for a car ride.  When it gets into the car for the first time, reward it with a treat.
Rewards get the dog thinking that this is a good experience and not one of dread.
This also works well with bathing, clipping nails or cleaning out their ears.  If they relate the treatment as positive then you will get a positive response out of the dog.
Take the dog out for walks.  Allow the dog to meet and greet some, not all dogs.  If you know the dog you are about to greet or the other dog owner states that it is O.K. to approach the dog then carefully allow them to greet.  Dog parks are ideal to socialize your pup with all variations of dogs.

Do puppy massages.  We do this for all our pups.  We start by training them to lay on their back.  We then rub their feet and between their pads, we graduate to introducing a brush and give them a treat when they allow us to brush them.  We give them a treat while they are in the bath or when we clip their nails.
 Start young and reap the benefits for many years to come.

Puppy Proof


This is as important as child proofing a home.  Now I say this with some reserve.  I am a believer that the pet or child for that matter needs to be trained and not re-arrange the house to suit the pup or kid.

There are exceptions to all rules and in this case I make one.  Ensure that all poisons that could harm the pet are out of reach.
Remove any poisonous plants from both the house or yard.
Puppies will chomp first and become sick or die after and we do not want either.
Certain household plants can kill a dog.  Check yours out and research them to see if they are toxic to pets.
Outside plants we take for granted can also kill.  Grapevines don't kill but their fruit in theform of grapes and raisins do.  The leaves of rhubarb can also kill a dog.

So that is my exception.  Be prepared to introduce as many things into the dogs life within the first 3 months as you possibly can.  This will stay with the dog forever and better to have a positive response than that of fear.
Fear can stop you and your pet from enjoying the great outdoors.  Fear may cause the dog to bite when faced with something new and unusual.

I mentioned before that your pup will teeth so put those precious shoes away.  Have ample chew toys for him or her to gnaw on. Keep the pup active with plenty of things to do.  Training being the top of the list.  The more interaction, the more you work the dog the more it will become a model citizen of your family.  Of course you will be proud to show it off as well so the rewards come full circle.
You will also tire the dog out and it will be less destructive as a result.
Enjoy your dog.

Almost ready to take the pup home...

You have researched the pup that best suits your environment and lifestyle.  It's not too big or too small, sheds or doesn't is a pure bred or a mixed breed.  You know the relative cost of purchase, the food bill, the vet bills and now there is the first step before you bring the puppy home.
You should ask the breeder, if you could bring a blanket over so that it can be put in the kennel with the mom and pups or at the least you can rub down the mom with the blanket so that her scent transfers to it.
when you get home place the blanket into the kennel or location where the pup is to live.
This will help it during the transition because it will smell familiar and assist it calming down at night when it sleeps alone for the first time.
If at all possible pick up the dog when it is the weekend, preferably along weekend or a time where you have 3 or four days off.
This is like a new baby and both you and the pup are going to adjust to one another.  Expect some long nights where the pup awakes and cries or whimpers.
Do not pick up the pup when it cries.  Simply pet it and keep it in it's enclosure.  If it wants out then simply say firmly, "No"
 Place the pup back into the kennel and walk away.  You may have to repeat this several times.

Never hit the dog for any reason.
Do not rub the dogs nose into its feces or urine.


Understand that this is a pup and it will have accidents.  Use a pee pad.  Place it outside the kennel and when it does it's thing reward it with with compliments and give it a treat.
All dogs have the equivalent behavior of a 2 year old child and a vocabulary of about 200 words.
It will be a child for all its life.  Treat it like it is one when it comes to discipline
When you get up in the morning, don't go for the coffee, go straight to the dog and take it outside and when it completes its task, reward it and then carry on with meeting your needs.
If you go out for an extended time expect accidents and do not reprimand the dog.  It does not know what it is getting in trouble for if it did its thing a couple of hours prior to your arrival.

I have a 4 year old female, Shih-Tzu, who after every bathroom break, wiggles her little tail then runs into the house and goes to where the treats are kept.  She always gets a compliment and a treat.

Puppy proof your house.  Puppies will teethe and they will chew on wooden legs, shoes and anything they can sink their teeth into.  If you catch the pup in the act, simply say "No!" and then give it a chew toy.  
Have several so they don't get bored.
I will go into more details about training but this is a good start.

Enjoy your pup, expect accidents, expect some damage due to chewing,   There is never a good reason for beating your dog.  In fact if you do then truly, you are not ready for such a commitment and should re-evaluate why you need a dog.

Socializing the dog will be my next topic.

The Guarantee

We guarantee our puppies have been raised in our home and have been given the very best care, from the time of birth to present day. We guarantee that the puppy gets a farewell visit to the Veterinarian prior to departure. We guarantee that all our Mastiff puppies have been socialized prior to them leaving.
We guarantee all our puppies have been age appropriately socialized.   They need a great deal of communication with their owners and other pets.  To help a dog make a wonderful canine citizen and human companion, we as responsible breeders socialize our new born puppies.  Socialization is a complex process that involves a few stages.  Puppies should interact with their mother and littermates.  Communication with people should also be included to form stable bonds between the puppy and its owner.  Properly socialized puppies should neither be too timid nor too inquisitive.

Our puppies are registered with the Canadian Kennel Club. We do not sell without registration papers. When the puppies go to their new homes their vaccinations and worming schedules are up to date, they have been micro chipped  for identification and have been thoroughly health checked.

All our  puppies leave here prepared as follows with:

1.	A health record, which includes a vaccination certificate
2.	Microchipping for identification
3.	A Bath and a nail clipping
4.	Food and a few toys
5.	A Puppy Information Kit/ certified pedigree and registration to follow

For the protection and well being of our lines, the buyer agrees to return the dog if for any reason the buyer is not able to keep the puppy.

As sublaxation, OCD and HOD can be the results of poor nutrition, improper exercise and/or excessive crating no warrantee shall apply for these conditions. It is the Sellers opinion that unilateral dysplasia is non-genetic and of injury or nutritional origin.

As DJD Grade 1 type elbow dysplasia  or unilateral elbow dysplasia can be the results of poor nutrition, improper exercise, injury from jumping or rough playing, no warrantee shall apply for this condition.

As Thyroid disease is often the result of improper nutrition the seller reserves the right to not warrantee this condition.

As heartworm related cardiac disease is brought on by neglect to properly care for the dog no warrantee  shall apply for this condition.

No warrantee is given for Entropian or Extropian.

Since undescended testicles can be caused by injury or other trama no warrantee is given for retained testicles after the puppy is received by the buyer. Male puppies have been examined and verified to have both testicles descended by my veterinarian at the time of health certification.

No warrantee is given for any condition if a male dog is neutered before the age of eighteen months.

Breeding the dog or bitch voids any warrantee.

A final health check has been made by Breeders veterinarian and a health certificate is included in your new puppy packet.

Questions I should Ask the Breeder

If you have done your homework and chosen the breeder, made contact with the breeder, checked their references, there are some questions you should still ask to ensure the fit is right between you and the breeder.
The breeder should be more than proud of their Dogs and that of the breed.  They should be able to give you a lengthy history of that specific breed and be excited in sharing the history of the breed with you.  They should not be more interested in completing the sale with you but rather they should be entering into a long term relationship with you.
My dogs are first and foremost and their health and welfare begins at conception and ends when they pass away.  Each and every pup is family to me and the dog owners are merely an extension of that family.
You should be made to feel part of that family.  If there is a rush to sell, if there is any unease to have you visit the breeder, then choose a different breeder.
Pure Bred dogs will be registered.  This is a process into itself.  To be certified by CKC or the AKC, one must meet certain criteria.  This includes, besides the obvious, having no non-mixed breed dogs that are not neutered or spayed living amongst the pure bred dogs they are planning to breed.  The facility must be clean, the living quarters and the whelping facilities must also be clean and meet certain standards.
You as a buyer can quickly see, by visiting the breeder, if they meet your standards.  Rely on your common sense.
The breeder should have both the male and female (Mom and Dad) of the pup you are interested in.
The breeder should be able to inform you of what congenital defects the breed is prone too and should be able to tell you how they breed to avoid that tendency.  They usually choose a male or female from another breeder who shows little or no health risks associated with that breed.  They should be willing to share that information with you and you should also be able to contact the contributing breeder as well.

Some basic questions to ask are.
How long have you been breeding for?
Is there a health guarantee?
How old does the pup have to be before I get it?
What is the name of your vet? (if you purchase locally, you might benefit by using the same vet as they are most experienced with the history of that breeder's dogs and you might get a discounted rate too!
When should I vaccinate my new dog?
Has it had it's first shot?
Has it been given a de-worming pill?
How often should I treat my dog for worms?
Has it had it's nails trimmed?
How often should I trim the nails?
What food do you recommend?
How should I feed the dog?  On demand or measured portions?
How often should I either brush or have my non-shedding dog groomed?
Do you know a good groomer?
What flea treatment do you recommend and how often?
How often should I bath my dog?
When should I spay or neuter?

Next the guarantee.

Can I Buy A Dog NOW?

YES......NOT! 
So your mind is set of the right dog. You know the size, the hair type and chances are, your mind is set on a specific breed.
This is where the work begins.  Choosing the right breeder is so important.  It is crucial in every aspect of ensuring you pick both a reputable breeder but also one who is willing to mentor you in maintaining the ultimate health of your investment, the dog of your choosing.
We all know that pet shops are the last choice....I mean they should never, ever be considered.  The bulk of the puppy mills produce solely for pet stores.  It is cruel and unusual punishment where the females breed consistently from cradle to grave.  They never see daylight and know only the confines of a cage.
You are not doing the pup any good by supporting the puppy mills simply by purchasing that dog.  If there is no profit in it for the store, they will stop supporting the puppy mills.
Go online and shop for your specific breed.  Contact first by email then follow-up by telephone and if at all possible choose a breeder close to you so that you can physically visit them.
I made the mistake of purchasing a Shih-Tzu from a person, who delivered it to me in a parking lot.  we took the pup home and she was great.  She was great right up to her first heat.  Then all hell broke out.  She became hypersensitive to all foods, lost all her hair, was put on drugs, had her food altered to home made and the day after she turned 2, our Vet recommended we have her euthanized as she was suffering.  We were obviously heart broken. 
Had we visited the site we would have discovered a puppy mill environment and would have turned and run from that site.  So to save the cost of a ferry boat ride we were dealt an inbred dog that as beautiful as she was, suffered because of our poor choice. We reported the breeder to the S.P.C.A.
Now if you cannot go to their facility, ask the breeder for references.  You want to call the buyers as well as any other breeder they may be associated with.  Breeders always breed their dogs with well researched breeders ensuring that they avoid specific ailments that may be found in that specific breed.
By knowing the caliber of the breeder, you will be saving yourself some possible grief later on.
The purebred breeder will have registered dogs.  They will have contracts you must sign.  They will have a guarantee in place.In my next Blog I will cover what questions you should ask the breeder.

Shedding vs Non-Shedding

If your mind is set on one or the other based on choice of breed, then you will get either a shedding variety or a non-shedding dog.  For those who are considering a dog for the first time though, this is a choice that matters.
There are degrees of shedding dogs.  Short hair or long the amount of hair and thickness of hair varies between dogs.  For example a Labrador does not shed as prolifically as a Samoyed because of what it's coat is designed for.  A Samoyed comes from Siberia where it lives in harsh winter conditions.  When it sheds it sheds volumes.  It is in fact a high maintenance dog which requires brushing often. 
I remember a friend owning one and with every brush stroke handfuls of hair would be removed.  Conversely a Lab requires less attention.
Hair will inevitably be shed and require extra work if in fact you allow the dog indoors.  The hair will weave itself into furniture seats, your sock and often is impossible to remove.  This means constant vigilance on the owners behalf in house cleaning, training of the dog to sit or sleep in specific areas.
Non-shedding dogs come with their own set of concerns.  Grooming becoming the most important concern.  Your Shih Tzu variety will require regular brushing and of course haircuts.  Most people will take their pet to the groomers ever 6 weeks to avoid matting of hair. 
These dogs do not shed hair, however, they like humans, lose hair, and will require regular brushing.  The longer the hair becomes the more work it becomes.  My dogs are not show dogs and in the winter we allow the hair to grow.  When we go into the woods for a walk, the hair gets wet and muddy requiring a bath when we return home.
Medically speaking, if you are prone to allergies, non-shedding dogs are the correct choice because these non-allergenic dogs do not shed releasing as much dander into the atmosphere as do their shedding counterparts do. It is the dander that most people are sensitive to.
Obviously, the choice is yours, the amount of labor depends upon the style of coat.  Both types have maintenance requirements and within that there are the sub groups based on size of dog, where the breed originally lived, what their coat was designed to do, that will determine the level of work.

Should I Spay or Neuter?

          The answer is obvious to most but the reason raises concerns.  The reason to "Yes" you should spay or neuter is because there are millions of dogs euthanized every year.  Why this happens is because people have not thought out the process of purchasing a pet and that of the cost.  Some people think it is unfair to deny a dog of its fundamental duty of reproduction especially with the males.  Some can't afford to spay or neuter thus they should not be in the market for a dog in the first place.
        There are more reasons though that one should consider.  A male is more aggressive when he is defending his property and can attack other dogs, children, delivery people at the least of provocation.  All dogs can be aggressive without warning.  In our town a girl was petting a family friend's Cocker Spaniel when it lunged and almost tore the young girl's face off.  The dog had no previous history of this behavior.
        You are compounding this by keeping the family jewels attached and unless you are a responsible breeder the liability could bankrupt you.
         Dogs will when, not neutered, mark territory.  This means bed posts, coffee tables, Christmas trees and a host of corners both in your home but also the homes you visit.  Embarassing to say the least.
         Females who are not spayed will, believe it or not, mark territory as efficiently as their male counterparts.  When I take my dogs for a walk the females will mark poles, atop of the other females marking within the pack. Believe me when I say the females are as prolific as males when marking territory.
         Some argue weight gain as a reason to avoid neutering or spaying. For your health this is as good a reason to take several walks per day to keep you and your pet trim and fit.
         Females have another issue that all females have and that is a monthly.   O.K., in dogs it is once every 9 months.  Menstruation lasts up to 2 weeks and the flow can be quite pronounced regardless of size of dog.  This can be messy if your dog is an indoor variety
.       Females also attract males from miles around during their heat and may result in an unwanted breeding with an undesired male suitor.
        So do yourself and your dog a favor and within 6 months of birth have him or her fixed.  They become more docile as their sex drive takes a nose dive and you will have less headaches and be contributing to the reduction of the over population of unwanted pets in the pound.

Health Matters

Grapes toxic to dogs.

http://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Grape_and_raisin_toxicity_in_dogs#cite_note-Merck-2

Grape and raisin toxicity in dogs - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

en.m.wikipedia.org

A day at the beach

The Cost?

We all think as first time owners that dogs are relatively inexpensive.  We look in local papers and see mixed breeds being given away or sold for less than half that of a pet store and thousands less than a pedigree dog.
Well if we factor in purchase price and that of No Name pet food, the price appears to be more than affordable, it seems, should we venture to say, too good to be true?
Most young people as well as well meaning first time dog buyers think that the cost is affordable, they then bond with said pup and then have their heart strings torn when some unknown cost surfaces.  So let us examine those costs so that we can come to a realistic number that will be associated with you new pet before you take the plunge, commit,  then are heart broken because your puppy has to be euthanized as the cost to correct its condition costs more than the ultimate decision.
Where to start?
First in this section I will not venture into breed specific conditions that may or may not arise however. will caution you to research your breed carefully so that you understand that some breeds are prone to hip issues and others to ear infections while others to glaucoma, and some like my Shih-Tzu's, teeth problems.
KNOW YOUR SPECIFIC BREED
Initial cost will be the purchase price.  It can range from free to thousands of dollars depending upon its pedigree.
Second is the cost of Spaying or Neutering your dog.  Add $400.00 dollars or more depending on age of dog whether it has Whelped prior to said surgery or not.  If it is a Shih-Tzu for example, the vet may recommend pulling its baby teeth whilst under the knife for the spaying or neutering.  The cost may now be $600.00 for something you spent $350.00 to purchase.
You bought a collar and leash for $20.00 and mid range dry dog food $30.00 for one month supply and already your little ball of fluff is topping $1000.00.
Wait!
 There is more before he/she reaches 6 months of age. The vet will not Spay or Neuter your pet until it has received all 3 of its vaccinations and been De-wormed.
The shots range from $50 to $80 dollars each and the worm pill for 3 to 5 dollars.
The cost is now well over $1000.00 and since we have not included future vet visits for Breed related conditions, one can see the cost is growing.
  A friend of mine just spent $5000.00 for knee surgery on his Bouvier and may have to get the other knee done.
My Shih-Tzu  pups are famous for slow development of their baby teeth and if they don't fall out as they should the vet will recommend they get done before the second teeth start to grow around the baby ones.
It is so important that you first investigate the breed, then discuss with your vet on the first visit with your new pup all those conditions that may or may not afflict your breed so that as much preventative measures can be taken ensuring a positive outcome for both you and your dog.
It is not that I wish to dissuade you from taking the plunge into dog ownership, I just want you to be made aware of the hidden costs associated with dog owning.
It is an investment where the rewards of unconditional love outweighs the negative if in fact you are well informed.
If you buy a non-shedding dog, then add $60-$80 every six weeks to 3 months for grooming costs.  When the dog is being groomed they will clip their nails and express their fear glands located in the anal region of your pooch.
Of course there is flea season and the most popular treatment (Program) will cost you another 10 to 20 dollars every 6 weeks.
To sum it up, your real costs far exceed the cost of feed and purchase price when you take in the most basic concerns associated with your new dog. I simply want you to be well informed before you take the plunge.  An educated, well prepared pet owner is a happy pet owner.

A little more on age.

Seniors are not off the hook either.  All age groups are sometimes guilty of choosing a dog for all the wrong reasons.  The most glaring is for protection of property.  This usually means buying some large breed like a German Shepard, a Rottweiler or some fang bearing mongrel that would put the fear into God let alone a would-be thief.
However, size is not the deterrent in most cases, the mere fact you are a dog owner is reason enough, and size has little to do with the reason you will be left alone.  Most crooks are after cash or small items they can quickly remove without being caught or discovered and any dog will thwart this kind of degenerate.
I have 5 Shih Tzu dogs and combined they total, one 80 pound Goliath.  I have no strange visitors entering my yard without a chorus of wild yapping's thwarting any attempt by crooks including, sales people, bible thumper's, politicians and even the police don't dare open the gate if the dogs are outside.
Size is not the deterrence as much as the noise the dogs make alerting you and your neighbors to a disturbance.
Ensure that you do your homework before you take the plunge into dog ownership so that you get both a loyal pet and one that meets your needs, financially.

Some of the crew.